Derm vs. DIY

Seeking smooth, clear skin? Here’s how to go pro or solo


Treatment: Acne Blaster

Office: Physicians can magically deflate a flare-up—all it takes is a quick injection of cortisone—but most in-office acne treatments require multiple visits. Isolaz combines a dirt-and-oil-extracting vacuum with a bacteria-battling broadband light to purify pores; Smoothbeam is a diode laser that attacks acne by shrinking sebaceous glands. Monthly chemical peels slough off dead skin with a blend of hydroxy and fruit acids to maintain a clear complexion.

Home: A daily cleanser or moisturizer with salicylic acid will prevent pores from clogging and lift off dead skin, making blemishes disappear quickly. Retinol-based creams can also aid in resurfacing the skin by speeding up cell turnover. A variety of at-home LED gadgets emit acne-blitzing blue light (two sessions per week for four weeks should produce results); the Zeno, which targets individual spots rather than the whole face, zaps zits by heating (and destroying) bacteria.

Treatment: Pigment Fixes

Office: Doctors can target brown patches caused by overactive melanocytes—the pigment-producing cells in skin—with an intense pulsed light (IPL) machine (each session takes about 15 minutes) or resurface the entire face using microdermabrasion, peels, or lasers, such as the new fractionated CO2. Prescription hydroquinone, which temporarily blocks melanin synthesis, remains the most potent Rx topical but can cause irritation and isn’t recommended for long-term use.

Home: No wonder OTC brightening agents continue to proliferate: Studies have proven that an uneven complexion does as much to advance one’s perceived age as wrinkles. Look for lightening products containing glucosamine, niacinamide, and good old vitamin C—all of which are gentler than hydroquinone and may gradually lighten dark spots with regular use. Fighting spots is an ongoing battle: Protect against future irregularities by applying sunscreen religiously.

Treatment: Hair Removers

Office: Electrolysis destroys hair by shooting an electrical pulse into individual follicles and can be permanent after numerous treatments. The downside? It tends to be painful and expensive. Laser hair removal, which prevents regrowth by destroying pigment in the follicle bulb, is an effective—and less ouch-inducing—way to eradicate unwanted hair, provided it’s significantly darker than the skin. Prescription topical hair inhibitors such as Vaniqa, which blocks a hairgrowth-causing enzyme, take about four to eight weeks to show results.

Home: At-home hair-busting gadgets take a little longer than in-office lasers (and should not be used on the face or by those with dark skin) but offer convenience and privacy. Users of the Tria Personal Laser report a 60 percent hair decrease after three months, and Silk’n—a doctor-dispensed device that uses a patented Home Pulsed Light technology—has shown similar results. Are ingrown hairs a problem? Try dabbing salicylic acid-based pimple cream on them; the exfoliating ingredient kills bacteria in the hair follicle.


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